Monday 6 May 2019

Chefchaouen - blue town

Chefchaouen is famous for being a pretty town with lots of blue buildings, and also for hashish.

The history is complex. An overview of the history of Spain and North Africa is here. A key date to remember is 1492, the year of the Reconquista (reconquest) of Spain by Christian forces under Isabel and Fernando. They evicted the Moors (Muslims), who had ruled most of Spain from 711.


Fernando of Aragon and Isabel of Castilla 

The deal they offered the Jews and Muslims was essentially to get out, or convert to Christianity. Isabel and Fernando started the Spanish Inquisition (which nobody expected) to flush out people who claimed that they had converted in order to stay, but hadn't really.

The other thing that happened in 1492 was that they funded Christopher Columbus' voyage to America, which lead to huge quantities of gold coming to Spain, and the booming of the Spanish economy.

Chefchaouen came into this story by being the destination of a lot of refugees, both Jewish and Moorish, fleeing from Spain and setting up their town. It has a number of Spanish features.

More history here.



Chefchaouen


We found Chefchaouen to be friendlier than Fez or Marrakech. Those seriously over-touristed cities were full of people who saw us as a potential source of money, so every interaction, such as an offer to help us find our way if we were lost, turned eventually into a demand for money, or an offer to show us a shop from which a commission might be earned. But here in Chaouen, we had several encounters with people apparently for the fun of talking to us.

These young women were dressing up and playing with friends who had drums and horns.




The town is very cute, and there is a corny photo around every corner.




 



 

There is a famous Chinese curse: 'May you live in interesting times!' 

I think an equivalent one for today might be: 'May your home be listed as a top destination on Tripadvisor for people pursuing their Bucket List!' 

People from all over the world will clog your streets and take photos of you and your house!

We rented a car and drove in from Chefchaouen to explore the Rif Mountains and went for a bush-walk. Stunning!



God's Bridge at Akchour



We drove north to a beach on the Mediterranean coast called Oued Laou and had a big lunch at a seafood restaurant.


Fishing boats on the beach at Oued Laou



Kitchen staff at Casa Hassan

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