We took an Uber to the airport. Went smoothly. We had been warned that the Iceland Discoverytrip in an Intrepid minibus would only allow 15kg luggage each, which presented a challenge to pack in a way that we could park one bag in storage at a bus station in Reykjavik. We did that, but in the event, the minibus had plenty of room, with 16 seats for 8 passengers plus Jura the tour guide/driver. So we retrieved the spare bag on our first day, and relaxed.
Some influences on Iceland to think about before we start the tour; geological, historical and social.
Geology. Ice-age. Glaciers. Smooth islands; lots of lakes.
Scandinavian Ice Sheet 20,000 years ago
Iceland sits on a gap between two tectonic plates that are moving apart. Plenty of volcanic activity. Also cheap and plentiful geothermal energy.
Settlers followed, from Norway, Ireland and Britain; Iceland developed a progressive politics, different to the harsh monarchy in Norway. Participatory gatherings called 'things' were used to debate decisions. Many of the women were Gaelic slaves.
The Icelandic sagas were written around 1100-1200. The Book of Settlements (Landnámabók) describes many details of life.
Erik the Red was a troublemaker in Iceland who was exiled in about 982. He explored and settled Greenland in about 988.
Approximately 1000, Erik's son Leif Erikson discovered the North American continent.
How Scandinavian countries compare with others, including Australia.
Size and population
The contrast in scale is striking. Australia's landmass is approximately 7.7 million km², making it roughly 17 times larger than all six Nordic and Baltic countries combined — yet its population of 26.8 million is only marginally bigger than Sweden and Finland together. Iceland, with around 380,000 people, is the smallest by far.
GDP per capita and wealth
All five Nordic countries are among the 20 countries in the world with the highest GDP per capita. Norway recorded $79,670 per capita in 2024, while Iceland reached $98,150, placing it fifth in the world nominally. Norway's wealth picture is also shaped by its sovereign wealth fund — the world's largest — worth over USD 1.7 trillion. Estonia, at $20,046 nominal GDP per capita, is significantly lower, though its PPP-adjusted figure is $41,546 — reflecting a much lower cost of living. Australia sat at $61,212 in 2024.
Finland led the World Happiness Report 2025 for the eighth consecutive year, with an average score of 7.736 out of 10. Nordic countries again dominated the top four: Finland, Denmark, Iceland, and Sweden, in that order. Australia ranked 11th, a strong result outside Europe. Estonia, at 39th, reflects its more recent economic development history.
According to the 2025 CEOWORLD Health Care Index, Australia ranks third in the world, with consistently high scores in infrastructure and government readiness. Sweden ranks fifth globally, Norway ninth. Finland ranks 19th and Denmark 24th on that index. Estonia performs surprisingly well given its size, partly due to its advanced e-health digital infrastructure.
Estonia has quietly become Europe's top-performing education system on PISA, with every teacher holding a master's degree and education free from preschool through university. Finland, long the benchmark, has slipped slightly but remains in the global top tier. Iceland leads the world on the UN's HDI Education Index with a score of 0.960. Australia performs solidly, sitting in the global top 10.
Denmark had the highest tax-to-GDP ratio among all OECD countries in 2024 at 45.2%. Finland (42.2%), Sweden (41.4%), and Norway (40.2%) also exceed 40%, all comfortably above the OECD average of 34.1%. Iceland sits at 36.9% and Estonia at 35.2%. Australia is among the seven OECD countries with a tax ratio below 30%, at around 29.5% — a stark contrast to the Nordic model, where high taxes fund free tertiary education, universal healthcare, and extensive social safety nets.
'Hallo! Welcome to Iceland. Your adventure begins in Reykjavik, which lies just below the Arctic Circle. The city sees around four hours of sunlight a day in winter and 22 hours or more in summer. Surrounded by volcanic peaks and crystalline ocean, this city boasts a vibrant arts and nightlife scene. You’ll have a welcome meeting at 6 pm at your accommodation tonight. If you arrive early, why not head to the National Museum, which depicts the history of Iceland from the ninth century – when the first Vikings from mainland Scandinavia arrived and settled – to the present day. Or join locals in the Laugardalslaug Geothermal Pool.'
The Intrepid crew
Sun Voyager statue on Reykjavik harbour
Day 2 - Sunday June 7th
'Make an early start to beat the crowds on the Golden Circle route. Head to Thingvellir National Park, home to the Parliament Plains and location of Iceland’s first parliament. Thingvellir also contains the Silfra fissure, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly pulling apart. The resulting gap is partly filled with fresh water and is clearly visible. From here, head to the Geysir geothermal area, checking out Strokkur and watching as the geyser swells with blue water before erupting and shooting 20 to 30 m in the air. See the immense beauty and sheer power of the Gullfoss (Golden) double waterfall on the Hvita River, before proceeding to a remote farm in the Hvolsvollur region – your home for the night.'
'You’ll start the day at the Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss waterfalls – you can feel the power of Skogafoss up close at the viewpoint, with a strenuous walk up a windy set of stairs. The black sands and bizarre, rectangular rock formations of Reynisfjara are up next. The last stop of the day is the famous Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. Make sure you head down to Diamond Beach, where some of the icebergs wash up onto the black sand. Maybe book the optional walk along the face of one of Europe's largest glaciers – the epic ice cap of Vatnajokull.'
Seljalandsfoss
Drone shot of Gluggafoss with our group at the bottom left
We did a guided trek on Vatnajokull Glacier, from Skaftafell.
Pavel the glacier guide
Crevasse
Glaciers are retreating roughly 50–100 m per year in recent decades with global warming. Statistics here.
Day 4 - Tuesday June 9th
'Return to Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon this morning to cruise between the jagged icebergs on a boat tour. Then, take a scenic drive along the rugged coast of the East Fjords. Enjoy the spectacular views of high mountains, deep fjords, waterfalls, glaciers and fishing villages. Make stops along the way at small but notable towns like Djupivogur, which became a member of the cittaslow movement in 2013 and is aiming to be the Happiest Town in Iceland. Drop by Egilsstadir – home to the mythic Lagarfljot Wyrm – then continue along mountain roads to the farm village of Modrudalur. At 469 m (1539 ft) above sea level, Modrudalur is the highest inhabited place in Iceland, and snow can be seen almost year-round. Stretch your legs with a walk to the farm's church, built in 1949 by farmer Jon Adalsteinn Stefansson in memory of his wife, then settle in for the night.'
We went on an amphibious duck tour of Jökulsárlón ice lagoon, dotted with icebergs. It was very cold and rained heavily on the open boat.
Jökulsárlón is a glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland, situated at the edge of Vatnajökull National Park. It formed as the outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull began retreating in the early 20th century, filling the depression with meltwater. The lagoon is renowned for its floating icebergs and surreal blue hues.
The skipper
Iceberg
Why do icebergs look blue?
Icebergs look blue because ice absorbs different colours of light unevenly.
Sunlight contains all the colours of the spectrum. When light enters very dense, compact glacier ice:
Red, orange, and yellow wavelengths are absorbed more strongly.
Blue wavelengths penetrate deeper and are scattered back toward your eyes.
As a result, the light emerging from deep within the ice is predominantly blue.
'Set off for Dettifoss – Europe's mightiest waterfall at 100-m wide and with a 45-m drop into the craggy shores of Jokulsargljufur canyon below. It’s so powerful that it’s vibrations can be felt underfoot! Continue with a scenic drive through the volcanic landscapes of Lake Mývatn, followed by a visit to Namaskard, where steam rises from the sulphuric terrain. Walk around the lava stacks and caves of Dimmuborgir, then see the massive pseudo craters of Skutustadir. Continue to the crescent shaped Godafoss waterfall, where legend says a lawmaker priest threw the idols of the Norse gods when Christianity became Iceland’s official religion in AD 1000. Travel on to Akureyri and settle into your accommodation for the evening.'
'Situated at the head of Iceland's longest fjord, Akureyri is the nation's second-largest city. This morning, embark on a short walking tour of the town, taking in the striking church and other local sights. Later, continue to Snaefellsnes Peninsula – home to the magnificent Snaefellsjokull Glacier, which played a starring role in Jules Verne's 1864 novel Journey to the Centre of the Earth. Next, time permitting, you can either bathe in the thermal pools at Lysuholslaug (seasonal) or see the Icelandic horses in the nearby fields. Tonight, you’ll join your group and hosts for a delicious home-cooked dinner.'
Jura, our tour guide and driver
Andrea
Lily (Andrea's daughter)
Martin
Steve, (Martin's son)
Jo
Betty (Jo's travel mate)
George
Dave
Hofskirkja is a turf church located in the village of Hof in Öræfi
We visited the site of the execution of Agnes Magnúsdóttir, subject of a novel 'Burial Rites' by Australian author Hannah Kent, which had been enjoyed by George's book club.
We then visited a beach on the Snæfellsnes peninsula and saw seals and various birds.
'Continue exploring the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, beginning with the white beach at Budir, then go on to Arnarstapi, where a short stroll along the coastal cliffs exposes you to rich bird life. Continue on to the basaltic pebble beach Djupalonssandur. In the afternoon, head back to Reykjavik to complete your circuit of Iceland. You may wish to book an optional whale watching tour for later this afternoon if you’re here between May and December. The rest of the evening is yours to maybe head out to dinner with your fellow travellers and toast with a glass of Brennivin (a savoury schnapps) to a wonderful adventure.'
Betty among the buttercups
Snæfellsnes house with mountain reflected
Coastline at Snæfellsnes
Basalt columns at Snæfellsnes
On our final night in Reykjavik, we went to see the Lava Show. Recommended.
