Chefchaouen - blue town

Chefchaouen is famous for being a pretty town with lots of blue buildings, and also for hashish.

The history is complex. An overview of the history of Spain and North Africa is here. A key date to remember is 1492, the year of the Reconquista (reconquest) of Spain by Christian forces under Isabel and Fernando. They evicted the Moors (Muslims), who had ruled most of Spain from 711.

Fernando of Aragon and Isabel of Castilla 

The deal they offered the Jews and Muslims was essentially to get out, or convert to Christianity. Isabel and Fernando started the Spanish Inquisition (which nobody expected) to flush out people who claimed that they had converted in order to stay, but hadn't really.

The other thing that happened in 1492 was that they funded Christopher Columbus' voyage to America, which lead to huge quantities of gold coming to Spain, and the booming of the Spanish economy.

Chefchaouen came into this story by being the destination of a lot of refugees, both Jewish and Moorish, fleeing from Spain and setting up their town. It has a number of Spanish features.

More history here.

Chefchaouen

We found Chefchaouen to be friendlier than Fez or Marrakech. Those seriously over-touristed cities were full of people who saw us as a potential source of money, so every interaction, such as an offer to help us find our way if we were lost, turned eventually into a demand for money, or an offer to show us a shop from which a commission might be earned. But here in Chaouen, we had several encounters with people apparently for the fun of talking to us.

These young women were dressing up and playing with friends who had drums and horns.

The town is very cute, and there is a corny photo around every corner.

 

 

There is a famous Chinese curse: 'May you live in interesting times!' 

I think an equivalent one for today might be: 'May your home be listed as a top destination on Tripadvisor for people pursuing their Bucket List!' 

People from all over the world will clog your streets and take photos of you and your house!

We rented a car and drove in from Chefchaouen to explore the Rif Mountains and went for a bush-walk. Stunning!

God's Bridge at Akchour

We drove north to a beach on the Mediterranean coast called Oued Laou and had a big lunch at a seafood restaurant.

Fishing boats on the beach at Oued Laou

Kitchen staff at Casa Hassan

Fès

Preparation for Fès

There were some interesting differences from Marrakech. The tout hassling was much worse in Marrakech. The women were almost universally head-covered there, whereas in Fès many young women would have passed as European, with make-up and attractive clothes. Fès seemed to have more active creative activity going on in a way that was visible; wood-carving, leather-work, sewing etc. In Marrakech the visible activity was mostly selling, not making.

We had an interesting time in Fès, meeting up with a well-known Australian writer and his wife. We had heard him speak at the Woodford Folk Festival about his life in Fès, and we had a meal in a restaurant with him, and then a couscous in the home they restored in the Fès medina. 

Approaching Fez, looking down from the Atlas

Bab Rcif, near our riad.

Dar Seffarine, our home for the next four days.

Dar Seffarine foyer

Close-up of a frieze in Dar Seffarine

The view from our roof

Our guide Abderrahime was previously a language teacher and spoke excellent English, and also had a good sense of humour. Interestingly he had some different perspectives from our previous driver/guide, Abdoul.

The blue gate to the walled city

The same gate from the inside

Some lovely old buildings

Chouara Tannery

Tannery worker

Girls running through the streets at night

Sweet treat stall

Butcher

Henna souq. It used to contain the Maristan 'Sidi Fredj', said to be the world's first psychiatric hospital, dated from 1286.

Nejjarine museum of wood-working

Weaver in his shop

Greengrocer stall

Camel trek

Abdoul drove us out to an area of desert sand-dunes called Erg Chebbi. We rode camels out into the desert to a campsite, where we spent the night, 'having enjoyed the sunset and amazing stars'. The next morning we rode back 'enjoying the sunrise.'

It didn't actually happen quite like that. The ride out coincided with rain and a sand-storm. No sunset. No stars. Lots of sand in face and tent. But on the other hand, there was something interesting and gritty about the sand-storm.

In the morning the weather was much better and the desert was very beautiful. 

Theme music 'Midnight at the oasis'.

 

Beau Dave and Beau George set off into the storm to attack the fort. Cultural reference here.