Friday, 31 March 2017

Cyclone Debbie

Cyclone Debbie caused a lot of damage. This image is from the 'earth' site.


She trashed the Whitsundays, and dumped buckets of rain all down the Queensland and NSW coast.


The politicians have been particularly pathetic recently, subsidizing an Indian coal mine and mocking people concerned about climate change.

Here are a few photos from the extra rain.


Austinville Creek


Austinville Creek


Purlingbrook Falls


Hinze Dam overflow


The race below the Hinze Dam


Columnar basalt rock formation at Fingal Head. Cook Island in the distance.

We had to get Nimrod down from Raby Bay to her annual appointment at BoatWorks in Coomera. The plan had been to bring her down on Thursday, ready for her liftout on Friday morning. The weather was wet on the Thursday, with a northerly of 20-25 knots, but Debbie was due to swing round and blow hard from the south for most of the week. A case of 'now or never'. 

The creek was flooded a kilometre down from our house, so I went round the back way to meet my mate Julien at Coomera. The back road was open, but later in the day suffered a major break! 


Julien and I got Nimrod down to BoatWorks without difficulty. Quite a bit of debris in the Coomera River. I stayed at his place that night, until the creek dropped enough to get home the next day.

As predicted, Debbie blew hard from the south for days. Just as well we made the move when we did.

Tuesday, 21 March 2017

Grand-parenting on Lord Howe Island

My daughter Anna lives in Melbourne with her partner Sim, and daughter Aelie (3½). We try to meet up every few months. This time was on Lord Howe Island, one of George's favourite places. We have been advised by friends who live there that it is better to fly there and enjoy it from the land, rather than sail across dodgy seas to an uncomfortable anchorage.

We had a lovely week together, staying at Leanda Lei, near the centre and an easy walk or bike-ride to a shop, the museum and the beach.

Here are some photos.


Aelie




Sim and Aelie


Using a 'Spy-board'


Friendly fish at Ned's Beach (where fishing is forbidden).


Mounts Lidgbird and Gower







Bikes outside the museum




Parrot fish




Anna and Sim climbing Mount Gower


Providence petrel (Pterodroma solandri)


Female Lord Howe Golden Whistler (Pachycephala pectoralis contempta), I think

An interesting article about the history of the Lord Howe Island volcanic activity over the last 30 million years. How we traced the underwater volcanic ancestry of Lord Howe Island.

Sunday, 21 August 2016

Intercourse with whales

No, silly! Not sexual intercourse. 

Intercourse: "Communication or dealings between individuals or groups."

We have had two profound interactions with whales since cruising; once in Hervey Bay, when two young humpbacks circled around Nimrod on a calm day, and more recently when we went snorkelling with humpbacks in Vava'u, Tonga.

Both events are on Vimeo.



We have received many messages of appreciation and admiration about these experiences, but also some commentary about the ethics of close encounters with whales, and, in particular, swimming with them.

I thought I would discuss the matter for anyone interested.

During my life, whaling has been an active political controversy. Those not familiar with the history might like to read about it, for example in this Wikipedia article.

In the 1970s, when I first became active in the environmental movement, there were still large numbers of whales being slaughtered by industrial scale whaling ships, especially by the Soviet Union and Japan. The Greenpeace pressure group was founded, in part, to combat whaling. The book 'Warriors of the Rainbow: A Chronicle of the Greenpeace Movement' is a fantastic read. Download the iBook here.

To a large extent, the battle to stop whaling has been a success, although not complete. Japan, in particular, continues to flaunt the legal restrictions on whaling. The Japanese whaling story is here. The success of the campaign has depended on engaging public opinion by demonstrations, consciousness-raising and education. The development of a whale-watching tourism industry around the world has played a valuable part in this. Thus it is not possible to address the negative possibilities of whale-watching tourism, without also considering the political benefits to the whales from an electorate mobilized to want to watch and protect them from the resumption of slaughter.

But there remains a significant concern that this industry risks harming the very animals that it is supposedly trying to celebrate. How should this be managed?

In most of the world, whale-watching is regulated by distance between the boats and the whales. The Australian regulations specify distance and relative position.


Many other countries have similar regulations.


The trouble with this approach is that it is 'gameable'. We have seen it happen repeatedly in Australia and also recently in Tonga. The whale-watch boats position themselves more than 100 metres from the whales in the direction that the whales are travelling, and then turn off their motors. The skippers twiddle their thumbs and look innocent, rehearsing the line for the wild-life protection officer: 'Honestly ossifer, the whales came to us! We wasn't doing nuffink!'

When there are several whale-boats all in the same area, the game takes the form of roulette. Each boat makes a bet on which direction the whales will move and stops there, just outside the 100 metre limit. The lucky boat gets the prize when the whales move towards them.The other boats break away and move off and take up position further away in the direction the whales are going.

My objection to this form of regulation is that it basically doesn't work. Secondly, it effectively leads to a situation which really is bad; that is of encirclement of whales who want to evade contact with boats. Adults can escape by diving deep. They can hold their breath for an hour. But young calves need to breathe every 15 minutes.

I think the regulations should shift from an emphasis on distance, to one which guarantees that encirclement and entrapment does not occur.

I have thought a bit about this. I think the best way would be to define an arc of 180˚ in which no boat may approach, and in fact are obliged to motor away from the whales. A zone which is 'off-side'. I suggest that it should be defined by the closest shore-line. Thus boats are allowed on the in-shore side of the whales, but not between them and the open sea, so that whales who did not want human proximity could easily avoid it.

Any boat that is off-side, but not actively motoring away from the whales, might be photographed and penalized. 

The next question is whether swimming with whales should occur. It does in a few countries; Tonga, the Dominican Republic, and recently, West Australia. But many countries do not permit it. There are two issues: safety for the whales and safety for the humans.

From the whales perspective, it is hard to see why a swimmer is more hazardous than a boat. As long as the limit discussed above applies, such that the whales have a clear option of disengagement, I see no problem.

Safety for humans is a different matter. In the second half of our 'Swimming with Whales' video above, there is the beginnings of a 'heat run'. This is a collection of frisky males jostling each other and jumping around to attract the favour of the single female who we had been following with her calf. Swimming with these males might indeed be hazardous.

In summary, IMHO, swimming with whales and the whale-watch industry should be permitted and encouraged, as long as there are clear rules to prevent entrapment and encirclement. Intercourse is OK, but only with consenting cetaceans, who have a clear and obvious escape route.

Footnote. When we were in Neiafu, Vava'u, we asked which was the best whale-swim tour to go with. We were told the name of the best one, but the boat was unavailable, because it had been booked out for the whole season by a professional Japanese underwater photographer who was flying in tours of Japanese photographers to film the whales.

About the best possible way to help the Japanese opposition to the whale slaughtering industry.

Here is a lovely poem, Whale Nation, by the late Heathcote Williams, performed by Roy Hutchins.

Tuesday, 28 July 2015

Road trip to Paris

With the end of the canal cruise, the party went their separate ways, and George and I rented a car to drive to Paris to fly home.

A search of the net turned up 'Nine of the Most Scenic Drives in Europe'. I noticed that two of them could be tacked together as part of the drive to Paris: No 4, in the Dordogne, between Sarlat-la-Canéda and Montignac, and No 3, along the Loire Valley, between Amboise and Blois.

So we took a taxi to Bordeaux airport after the boat drop-off, and drove a rental Renault via Saint-Émilion (a World Heritage listed special wine and history spot) to Sarlat-la-Canéda and then Montignac, staying in a hotel there.

Note to self (and others). Never ever do top tourist spots in Europe in July or August. Plenty traffic, rubber-neckers, and shoddy rip-the-tourists-off food and service.


Roofs of Saint-Émilion


Saint-Émilion square


Restaurant in Saint-Émilion square



Montignac



Montignac roof-top café 


Montignac waterfront restaurants. They look cute, but the food was terrible.


Lanouaille, on the road between the Dordogne and the Loire Valley


We had Bed and Breakfast at this run-down old farm-house near Amboise, grandly named Chateau Pintray.


The Eiffel Tower from a park in Sèvres

Sunday, 26 July 2015

Garonne canal and Baïse river cruise

We rented a canal boat from Le Boat company in Le Mas d'Agenais. The package is called 'The History and Heritage Cruise', although we were not restricted to any particular itinerary. 


We started a bit late on Friday July 17th, after driving from Blaye and provisioning in Marmande. First leg up the Canal lateral de Garonne towards Damazan was limited by the locks closing at 7pm. On the canal we could stop wherever we wanted.


First night on the canal


Learning about the long lunch in a shady restaurant - Vianne


Pretty girls in Vianne





Mary Poppins at Vianne


Exploring by bike


George posing for a Pfizer advert on a bike ride near Vianne.

At Buzet we took a lock to move from the Canal Lateral de Garonne, to the river Baïse. Different types of lock, and fewer places to tie up. 


Chateau on the banks of the River Baïse


Under Barbaste railway bridge


Evening meal at Barbaste


Fireworks at Barbaste castle


Fleurette statue at Nérac. She was the teenage mistress of the teenage Prince Henri, who later became the first Bourbon king. She killed herself after he dumped her. Her name 'Fleurette' gave rise to the word 'flirting'. 


Nérac


Nérac bridge and lock


Come and have some lunch, guys! Nérac.




Nérac bridge at night


Nérac night market. A lot of fun with food stalls, and live music. People friendly and happy to have photos taken of them. Right beside where we were moored.

Nérac is a delightful town. Some readers will know the film 'Chocolat', which stars Juliette Binoche, Judi Dench and Johnny Depp. It is based on the book by Joanne Harris, who has said that Nérac was an inspiration for the fictional village. She used to have holidays there as a child. More from Joanne Harris here


Armagnac seller


Girl at night market enjoying a cornet


Crepe seller - night market


Jewellery seller - night market


Singer in an Eric Clapton cover band - night market


Paul grooving on music with his cigar


The canal bank en route to Le Mas d'Agenais


Early morning downstream of Le Mas at Pont de Sable


Some of the crew escaping the heat in a canal-side bar - Meilhan sur Garonne


George - contra-jour


Meilhan sur Garonne


Panorama of the Garonne river and canal


Friendly farmers


Charolais


Sunrise over the Garonne valley

On Friday July 24th, we reached the end of the canal, where it joins the part of the Garonne River which is navigable to the sea, past Bordeaux into the Gironde Estuary and the Atlantic Ocean. This is at the town of Castets-en-Dorthe. By another stroke of luck, we arrived when there was another night market.


Moule van


Dancer


Man in market


Kay with her vaper


Surreal matchstick museum, with Palace of Versailles built by Gerard


A short video of the cruise on the Garonne Canal in SW France. HD version here.