Saturday, 4 May 2019

Fès

Preparation for Fès

There were some interesting differences from Marrakech. The tout hassling was much worse in Marrakech. The women were almost universally head-covered there, whereas in Fès many young women would have passed as European, with make-up and attractive clothes. Fès seemed to have more active creative activity going on in a way that was visible; wood-carving, leather-work, sewing etc. In Marrakech the visible activity was mostly selling, not making.

We had an interesting time in Fès, meeting up with a well-known Australian writer and his wife. We had heard him speak at the Woodford Folk Festival about his life in Fès, and we had a meal in a restaurant with him, and then a couscous in the home they restored in the Fès medina



Approaching Fez, looking down from the Atlas


Bab Rcif, near our riad.


Dar Seffarine, our home for the next four days.


Dar Seffarine foyer


Close-up of a frieze in Dar Seffarine


The view from our roof

Our guide Abderrahime was previously a language teacher and spoke excellent English, and also had a good sense of humour. Interestingly he had some different perspectives from our previous driver/guide, Abdoul.


The blue gate to the walled city


The same gate from the inside


Some lovely old buildings


Chouara Tannery


Tannery worker



Girls running through the streets at night


Sweet treat stall


Butcher


Henna souq. It used to contain the Maristan 'Sidi Fredj', said to be the world's first psychiatric hospital, dated from 1286.




Nejjarine museum of wood-working




Weaver in his shop


Greengrocer stall

A negative view of Fès. An article on Substack.

Wednesday, 1 May 2019

Camel trek

Abdoul drove us out to an area of desert sand-dunes called Erg Chebbi. We rode camels out into the desert to a campsite, where we spent the night, 'having enjoyed the sunset and amazing stars'. The next morning we rode back 'enjoying the sunrise.'

It didn't actually happen quite like that. The ride out coincided with rain and a sand-storm. No sunset. No stars. Lots of sand in face and tent. But on the other hand, there was something interesting and gritty about the sand-storm.

In the morning the weather was much better and the desert was very beautiful. 


 

Beau Dave and Beau George set off into the storm to attack the fort. Cultural reference here








Monday, 29 April 2019

Over the Atlas Mountains to the desert

We signed up for a tour with a driver and a 4WD to take us over the Atlas Mountains into the Sahara, on the way from Marrakech to Fez. Details of the plan with the company Morocco Explored.

Our driver for the next four days is Abdoul. He speaks good English, and has a great sense of humour.

Theme music for this blog entry: 'A Horse with No Name'. 


Carpets drying


Zat Valley

Heading into the High Atlas mountains in late April; snow still on the tops. Jebel Toubkal is the highest peak in north Africa at 4,167m (13,671ft). The coastal areas are mostly Arab. Inland they are mostly Berber. Further south are Tuaregs.


Repairing a slip near Teddart Village



Pottery for sale at Ait Hakim


Friendly man in Tazlida market


Berber man



Our driver told us this was a 'dark village'. People living here come from further south; more African than Arab.


Tizi n'Tichka Pass


Descending from the High Atlas. Country getting drier.


Road in to a salt mine


Ounila Valley


Aït Benhaddou

Several films have been shot here, including:

Sodom And Gomorrah (1963)
Oedipus Rex (1967)
The Man Who Would Be King (film) (1975)
The Message (1976)
Jesus of Nazareth (1977)
Time Bandits (1981)
Marco Polo (1982)
The Jewel of the Nile (1985)
The Living Daylights (1987)
The Last Temptation of Christ (1988)
The Sheltering Sky (1990)
Kundun (1997)
The Mummy (1999)
Gladiator (2000)
Alexander (2004)
Kingdom of Heaven (2005)
Babel (2006)
One Night with the King (2006)
Prince of Persia (2010)
Son of God (film) (2014)
Also used in parts of the TV series Game of Thrones.


Climbing Aït Benhaddou


Father and daughter on a camel


We had better get some turbans for the camel trek



The road to the Sahara


Other road users


George helping with a desert well


What could possibly go wrong?


Valley in the Middle Atlas


Saghro Mountains


Our Pajero going off-road at Botghrar


Driving off-road


Rock formation on off-road section


Kasbah in Dadès Gorge